Casting – Flipping & Pitching
FP 76H - THE Fluoro rod. When flipping and pitching and the bite is tough, fluorocarbon line helps you get more bites. This rod’s action was designed to make these techniques easier on the angler and have the appropriate power to avoid line breakage on hooksets.
FP 77H - THE Braid Rod. As grass gets thicker in the late spring, braid is always going to be your best choice. In order to prevent ripping big holes in the fish’s mouth and ultimately losing them, a softer mid-section compensates for the lack of stretch in braided line.
Casting – Cranking
C 72M - Don’t let the size of a small crankbait fool you, they are big fish catchers. Whether it’s a tight wobbling, long-billed crank in the cold, clear water or a small square-bill around stumps, this rod handles it all perfectly. High in carbon content for sensitivity, but a small amount of glass gives these rods a parabolic action to appropriately load a cast and keep fish pinned.
C 74MH - When cover starts to get thicker, this rod is a great versatile choice for just about any moving bait. It has enough mid-section power to rip a lipless crank out of the grass, but the appropriate action to let a fish properly eat a chatterbait and stay hooked. When the biggest bags of the year are being caught pre-spawn, this rod should be in your hand.
C 76M+ - When the fish are spawned out and starting to move out of the creeks towards deeper water, a mid-depth crank is a great choice. The “M+” designation means this rod has a very similar action to the shorter medium-powered rod, but additional length and power to launch those slightly deeper diving baits.
C 78MH - When fish are starting to position on points or offshore structure, banging an 18-20 foot diver around and forcing that reaction bite will help you sack ‘em. Enough glass in the mid-section will properly load larger cranks and get them out to where they need to be. Additional length on the handle makes launching these baits a long way even easier.
C 80H - When giants are roaming out at the ends of points or congregating on ledges, a magnum deep-diving crank should be the first thing you pick up. These large lures require a very specialized rod to fish properly without wearing yourself out during a long day of cranking. A near equal mix of glass and carbon gives you the appropriate action and power to properly load these baits, but enough sensitivity to feel every piece of structure you are dredging.
X610ML - When you are staring at them on the graph, a dropshot can’t be beat. This rod has a classic dropshot action. When you need to scratch out a limit on a tough day, this is what you need to dig out of the box.
X610M - When you need to employ lighter line to coax finicky bass, whether shaking a worm or wacky rigging, a quick, light and sensitive tip to feel the most subtle bites, but enough power to pull fish away from shallow cover is essential. This rod is the perfect balance of both, perfect for the more popular finesse techniques.
71M - If you are only going to pick one spinning rod to put on your boat, this is the one. Remarkably versatile, it can cover virtually any finesse technique. Don’t believe that guy at weigh-in that says he doesn’t use a spinning rod, he’s likely got one of these in his box.
71MH - When you need to go deeper with larger profile baits, but still need lighter line to give them the right action and get bit, this more powerful 7’1 variant is essential. It really shines for dragging finesse jigs or darters to target those big bronzebacks. The additional power will help manage them better when they rocket out of the water or make that final surge at the boat.
X74M - This long, medium-power is an excellent choice for big, deep water where you need to make long casts. Smallmouth anglers will find this an excellent choice for cracking a tube or fishing a heavy dropshot. Largemouth anglers will employ it to drag a Ned rig or hop a bigger shakeyhead. Wherever your tournament trail takes you, this long spinning rod is a must.